Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

A bowl of oranges on a Paris windowsill, a rose in a glass, and the earthy warmth of patchouli underneath: Coco Mademoiselle is Chanel’s modern classic, fresh at first glance and grown-up beneath.

Orange, mandarin and bergamot open it with orange blossom, bright and sparkling. The heart is rose and jasmine with mimosa and ylang-ylang. Then comes the signature: patchouli and vetiver, lifted by white musk and warmed with vanilla, tonka and opoponax.

It is a women’s fragrance that works almost anywhere, from the office to dinner, in every season but the hottest days. The patchouli is the deciding factor: some find it elegant, others find it sharp on their skin.

It is sold out for now. When it returns, a 5 ml decant of the Eau de Parfum is the smart way to try it, and it is worth testing side by side with Armaf Club de Nuit Women, which is often compared with it.

Notes. Top: orange, mandarin, bergamot, orange blossom; heart: rose, jasmine, mimosa, ylang-ylang; base: patchouli, white musk, vanilla, vetiver, tonka bean, opoponax. Launched in 2001. Perfumer: Jacques Polge.